Gothenburg, Sweden, is one of these Scandi towns on the cutting edge of New Nordic cuisine. Tasting menus abound, and Michelin stars are scattered about this coastal city like snowflakes. But for those of us without the time or the budget (and when working on deadline, who does have those things?) for a seven-course extravaganza of seaferns and pickled mussels … Read More
On a Greek Island, Catering to Tourists while Refugees Abound
It has been a tough year for Greece. Economic crises, political drama, and just as tourist season began — the one bright financial light for many islanders — a refugee problem of biblical proportions. Every day on the island of Lesvos, rubber rafts careen onto its shores, stuffed to the brim with refugees from Syria and Iraq. They board in … Read More
A Battle for Gentrification: A. Cooke Pie & Eel Closes For Good
In memorium: A.Cooke Pie and Eel Shop 1899-2015 They had been queuing for weeks, for hours on the weekends, the lost tribe of West London. Shepherds Bush, massively multi racial and as diverse as anywhere in diverse London, culinary home to falafel joints, Syrian flat bread stores, Eritrean sour dough pancakes, Sichuan hot pot, and American Five Guys burgers, … Read More
Food Under Financial Fire: Eatin’ in Athens
It’s a rare day when I find myself on the road for work with neither headscarf nor flak jacket — but reporting on the Greek financial crisis was an excellent change of pace. Light clothes, sandals, tap water I could drink, street food I could eat… all without fear of dysentery or gunshots. I had many excellent dishes in Athens, … Read More
Tunis: Dine in the Souk… Or Eat with the Locals
Tunis, the capital of Tunisia, has one of the most amazing souks in the Middle East: a warren of stone streets lined with perfume shops, shoemakers, cafes, and countless souvenir hawkers. There is an amazing restaurant in the middle of the souk – Dar el Jeld – and if I hadn’t been working so hard, for such long hours, I would have … Read More