We were doomed from the start. We had started our work day too early to eat breakfast… spent all morning outside in the cold… and as the hours passed the temperature dropped and the precipitation arrived. By lunch time we were cold, shivering, and starving. The standard advice is to never go grocery shopping on an empty stomach — but … Read More
The Economic Impact of War: An Empty Restaurant in Ramallah
The restaurant is gorgeous. Modern, impeccably designed and decorated, with attention paid to natural light, greenery, and conviviality… and yet, Darna Restaurant is nearly empty. Here in Ramallah, in the occupied West Bank, this local institution has pared back their midday staffing from 8 servers to just three, and a cavernous room full of long family-style seating… is an echo … Read More
Svitlo Cafe & Bar: Betting Big on Dnipro despite the War
In the center of Dnipro, on “Executive Committee” Street, stands a building that was constructed in 1867. For decades it contained several floors of meeting rooms, a synogogue, and a basement apartment for the rabbi. When the Germans attacked the Soviet Union in the Second World War, Nazis bombed this building… but the rabbi had gathered members of the congregation … Read More
Forshmak, Korushka, and Other Specialties in St. Petersburg
The greatest risk, when in search of a Russian meal, is of stumbling into a restaurant of gut-bombs: platters of cream-drenched chicken, iron crocks of cheese-laden something or other, hunks of greasy meat and bowls of doughy dumplings that turn into glue as soon as you digest them. The struggle is real. Which is why it was such a pleasure … Read More
Kurdish Cuisine… With a Side of Guilt
In the half-dozen trips I’ve taken to Kurdistan, not ONCE have we been able to finish the food on our table, whether we’re a party of two or of 8. Part of the charm and tradition of Kurdish hospitality is cooking and serving too much… that way if others drop by, there’s always some to spare. At Shkar Restaurant, a … Read More