In the half-dozen trips I’ve taken to Kurdistan, not ONCE have we been able to finish the food on our table, whether we’re a party of two or of 8. Part of the charm and tradition of Kurdish hospitality is cooking and serving too much… that way if others drop by, there’s always some to spare. At Shkar Restaurant, a … Read More
Breakfast with the Iraqi Army
It was an early morning: we had loaded up our vehicles before dawn, and drove the 90 minutes through the dusty Ninevah plains to the joint operations center… where Iraqis, Kurds, and Americans are coordinating the Mosul offensive. By sunrise, it was already hot, and flies buzzed around our ears. While we discussed plans for the day, the Iraqi Army … Read More
Quick Snack: The Mosul Offensive
Hot, dusty, dangerous, and sleeping in cars. Thank goodness for MRE’s, dried fruit, and this handy kettle and travel burner. Aside from a puzzling yet delicious “vegetarian sausage breakfast” MRE, there’s not much of note here – just calories and caffeine, pure and simple. Food under fire, in pictures.
Hiwa’s Do-It-Yourself Dolma Recipe
On the road, a home-cooked meal is an absolute luxury: a respite from the impersonal hotels and convivial but antiseptic restaurants that greet us at the end of each day. In Northern Iraq, we were invited (hooray!) to Hiwa’s house for his casual take on a traditional Middle Eastern dish, dolma. Now, I knew dolma only as stuffed grape leaves. But it turns out dolma literally … Read More
Quick Snack: Eating at the Earthquake
When disaster strikes – particularly when it’s close to home – people feel helpless, sad, and desperate to show their love and support in whatever way they can. In the mountainous region of Amatrice, many Italians rushed in to help look for survivors and comb through debris during the first hours after the quake. But that is helpful for only … Read More