Syria was holding its breath. Islamist fighters had taken control – and no one knew if they intended to impose Taliban-style Islamic law.
We went for a walk in the beautiful ancient center of Damascus. It was quiet. Merchants hadn’t opened their shops. Women had shut themselves away at home – waiting to see which way the wind was blowing.
We entered a restaurant that was deserted but open – the Joly. Christmas decorations were up in the empty dining room – there are a lot of Christians in this part of town, but we carried on up to the roof terrace where the winter sun warmed ancient stones.
Out of the kitchen came a fabulous array of appetizers – delectable hummus – both classic and beetroot, red pepper puree, spinach and chili, vine leaves and the creamy thick yoghurt called labneh. And of course hot fresh bread.
We were flagging by the time the mixed grill arrived – minced lamb and beef. And chicken livers cooked in pomegranate molasses. The cooking juices in the bottom of the big stone serving bowl were so delectable, I spooned them up like soup.
Then it was time for the serenity of hubble bubble….the Middle East’s tobacco pleasure.
Syria’s future is on a knife edge. After the horrors of Bashar al Assad’s cruel and narcissistic dictatorship, this lovely country deserves justice, stability and opportunity. While they wait – and work for it – Syrians will as ever eat well.
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